Wednesday, September 20, 2023

Knitting a sweater at a different gauge - "plug and play"


 A quick and dirty method to adapt a pattern to a different gauge/yarn weight.

1.       Determine your desired bust measurement (Example - 40”)

2.       Find your blocked gauge (say 5 stitches per inch)

3.       Multiple your desired bust measurement by your stitches per inch (40 x 5 = 200)

4.      See which size has a bust stitch count (the count after the sleeves are split off for top-down sweaters) closest to the number you came up with in step 3. Chances are there will not be an exact match. You can determine the measurements for the sizes on either side of your target by dividing the stitch counts by your gauge. (So 190 stitches would give you a 38” bust and 210 stitches a 42” bust.

I haven’t done a lot of this myself (since I am only knitting patterns I write right now, lol) but I feel like it’s best if your gauge isn’t dramatically different from the pattern – avoid using fingering weight for a sweater pattern that calls for chunky! It’s especially useful when you fall between sizes or your gauge is just a tad off.  It’s also a good idea to check any measurements dependent on row gauge – you may need to make some adjustments there depending on if you are knitting to row counts or a measurement. Best to try your garment on for fit as you go! And don’t expect the pattern yardage for the size you end up knitting to be accurate – have extra on hand just in case. Determining yardage is a complicated business (see my last post) under the best of circumstances.